ZAMBESI WINTER 2010 “The Enigma”

The Enigma is Zambesi. A winter collection that defies obvious definition and manages to deftly combine effortless ease with complexity.
In a collection that references the traditional – trenchcoats and streamlined suiting – a sense of futurism somehow dominates the mood. Simple concepts like the little black dress become imbued with considered intellectual drama. Pleats and draping create a new sculpturalism while unexpected texture and trademark detailing add depth.

Trenchcoats are redefined as linear, slender and modernist. Suiting also references traditional men’s tailoring with a sleek softness of line on waistcoats and jackets. Classic sheaths use clever textural detailing, as do black jersey dresses. Silks are softly draped, pleats are used to graphic emphasis. Trousers are mannish and narrow, with panel detailing, contrasting fabrics and ruched ripples. Letterman jackets juxtapose felted wool with patchworked leather. Funnel tops with cropped proportions use innovative fabrication. Skirts are mutable and easy to wear.

An elongation of line, refocusing proportion while still referencing traditional tailoring defines the collection. Suiting is linear and precise, reliant upon vital yet subliminal detailing like deliberate pick stitching. Wool cashmere imbues a three-quarter length coat with subtle luxury. Three quarter lengths also turn up in interpretations of the trenchcoat, the factory worker dust coat and toggled duffel coats. Collegiate references continue with felted wool lettterman jackets. Similar sporting influences are present too in trackpant trouser shapes. Suiting trousers continue the lean line of the season’s suiting with both flat-front and pleat-front styles. Slimline jeans in textural contrast combinations such as PVC and moleskin.

Brushed wool mix adds texture to oversized collegiate jerseys in black with broad stripe sections of contrasting green tea or maroon. Chunky New Zealand Merino invokes the landscape with slouchy cardigans with cable detail and shawl neck jerseys in graded brown or grey marle.

Colour is dour and subdued. Ink-saturated shades of navy and cool brown tones are used in unconventional combinations with black as the central axis of the collection for both men and women. Greys are also key in both pale marle felted wool and darker grey pleated suiting. Geometric prints reinvented in silks and cotton, vintage florals, overdyed soft cotton tartans and abstract landscape patterns also feature. Fabrications include wool, mohair, angora, silk, hi-sheen PVC, felted wool, fine wool gauze.

Black matt leather link-detailed belts and bags, Victorian spat boots, customised Chuck Taylors, fur pillbox hats and chunky Merino marle beanies, louche ankle boots and slipper shoes with elongated toes, fine knit neck ties, removeable fur collars for coats.