Winter 2005 showYou could feel the love in the room at “L’anniversaire” (The Birthday) - Zambesi’s ANZFW show.  This label could have shown a paper bag and would have been warmly applauded, such is their mana - but of course Liz Findlay and her team showed a typically masterful collection with just a hint of a certain shade of green - is Air New Zealand teal the new black?

In keeping with the celebratory theme. “L’anniversaire” outfits were merchandised with crystal bottle tops worn around the neck as long pendants.

Male models wore somewhat disturbing black shearling gloves which contrasted with the pleasing softness of a number of menswear pieces: quietly semi-sheer shirts, and what looked like silk georgette shirts worn out and over pants, under jackets.  A fine grey marle knit interspersed through both mens and womenswear added another fine layer between mens shirts and jackets.

Luxe touches like fur stoles, devoure and lurex-threaded tweed broke sobriety in womenswear.  Monotones were very prettily used, particularly in grey through to silver, with the occasional highlight of green - not just in teal but also in a light grass green.

Cropped slim pants with zips at the back ankle were worn over black hosiery.  A jodhpur showed beautiful pleat work as did a dropped waist, sleeveless all-in-one with pants.

The waist was important here as elsewhere in the day, and we saw two particularly effective necklines - a beautiful open half sailor neck on a dress, and fine knit ruched into “v’s” at front and back neck, combined with either leg-o-mutton or cap sleeves and ranging in length from top to knee length tunic over pants.

Zambesi’s collection showed that the label is still king - and may always be - of nouveau vintage and layering: no other designer does it with such consummate ease.

Source: review by Julie Roulston courtesy of FashioNZ

View Winter 2005 ("L’anniversaire”) Collection
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